Question:My mom just bought me a baby ball python from a breeder. This is the first snake I have ever owned and I was wondering if anyone could give me some helpful tips. I was told to feed it every Friday and it's about 1 to 1 1/2 ft. long right now. What should I feed it and I was wondering what I should use on the bottom of the cage. I currently have a cotton shirt spread out across the bottom of the aquarium. Is that okay? He has a wooden log, some fake foilage, a little water bowl that I change daily and a hat to crawl under. I would appreciate any information that may benefit to the care of my new pet. Thanks! <3
Answers:
Wow...it sounds like you were totally unprepared for the animal. Alright, I'll try this list form to make it as simple to follow as possible.
1: Research the animal as soon as possible. Now. Try www.ball-pythons.net, it's got a lot of good information and good people.
2: For that size of animal, for now a 10 gallon tank should be fine, but you DEFINITELY need a good digital thermostat and hygrometer. You should have an under tank heater (available at any pet store) that attaches to the bottom of the tank, a water bowl that is large enough for the animal to get water from but it does not have to be big enough for the snake to soak in (you may want a ceramic one so the snake can't knock it over), and two IDENTICAL hides. Half-log hides are not ideal, but almost anything will work, but remember that Ball Pythons like having the sides of the hide touching them. You need a heat lamp (no more than 60 watts or so should be fine) and an appropriate heat bulb, some aluminum foil and duct tape, and either shredded aspen, newspaper (doesn't look nice but it works), reptibark, or another substrate available at a pet store--NOT Cedar or Pine, because those are NOT good for your snake!
3: The Setup
You need a warm side, where the UTH (under tank heater) is placed and over which the lamp should be placed, and a cool side. The substrate should cover the entire bottom of the tank, and the probe for your digital thermometer should be just under the substrate but not touching the glass to measure the temperature and humidity at the snake's level. One hide should go on the warm side (89-91F) and the other should go on the cool side (79-82F). The water dish should be placed in the middle, and if you want you can get some plastic plants to put in for additional cover (NOT live plants, trust me, they die in about two weeks when your snake poops in them!!). Humidity should be 50-60
%.
4: Feeding
Ball Pythons eat mice and/or rats. Feed once a week or so, and if they don't take it within a set amount of time (depends on if you feed alive or frozen/thawed) you remove the food item and offer again in 3 days or the next time you are scheduled to feed. You can either feed live or purchase frozen/thawed online and thaw them out (do not use the microwave unless you want to clean mouse guts out!) to above room temperature. Food items should be no larger in diameter than your snake's largest point, and if you feed live you should remain nearby to make sure the snake isn't bitten by the animal. Some people choose to feed in a separate enclosure, but it is not necessary. It has however always worked well for me. It is of course entirely up to you, but always make sure not to stick your hand near your snake if you haven't washed your hands after handling a rodent.
5: Regarding shedding, you need to raise humidity to 65-75% during shedding, but not soak before shedding. You will know he is about to shed by the belly turning pink, the snake's colors looking a little dull, and then the snake will (a few days later) look very dull with blue-gray eyes; some snakes are very defensive and frightened at this point and you may not want to hold depending on how he acts. This will pass and the snake will look normal, but a few days later you'll come in and find skin on the floor of the tank and a nice, clean, shiny snake! If any shed is left, you just put the snake in some lukewarm water and let it soak (supervised) for about 10 minutes, then let the snake slither through a damp wash rag or paper towel in your hand and it should come off just fine!
That should be just about it; if you need anything else don't hesitate to email me at Seneschal13@yahoo.com and ask. Congratulations on your first BP and first snake, and I'm sure he'll make you a wonderful pet!
EDIT: Whoops, I completely forgot to tell you what to do with the tin foil and duct tape! The tin foil should be double-layered and cut to cover 75-80% of the screen lid, and then taped into place, leaving a hole for the heat lamp to rest and for air to be exchanged. The lamp should be over the UTH. This is to help keep the humidity and heat up in the tank; it's hard to keep it right in glass tanks with screen lids otherwise. ^-^ Sorry for the mistake!
a water dish large enough for him to soak in is helpful. for the bottom of the aquarium I use moss or bark. It holds moisture nicely and their skin needs moisture to shed properly. Make sure it is approved for reptiles as you dont want to cause respiratory problems. As an alternative you can mist him daily with water. As far as feeding.dont feed him in his cage. You don't want him to associate his cage with food. Second ideally you would feed pre-killed mice. If he has already eaten live food it can be almost impossible to switch back. The size mouse you feed should be about 1 and 1/2 x the largest part of his body (around obviously not length)
It sounds like you have the right idea don't worry a ball python is a great snake mine really likes to climb up on branches but the log is a good idea too. The water dish should be big enough for the snake to get into sometimes they like to sit in the water. Did you ask the breeder if he/she ate dead mice it is good if they can but it has to be taught when they are babies, it is only cheaper if they can live mice are more money. The once a week feedings are good while still young later you can feed every two weeks. I had a Albino Burmese python that got out of her cage and we didn't find her for about 5-6 months she was under our TV alive and hungry. Also although your ball is small snakes are very strong and get out of the cage sometimes so make sure there is a good strong latch to hold the cage closed. For example I put 6 encyclopedias and two gallons of water and my snake still could lift the lid (he was about 5 feet) so be careful. Good luck a ball isn't as adventurist as other snakes can be so you have made an excellent choice so have fun.
great choice!!ball pythons are docile and great for a first timer.
feed it frozen fully thawed hopper mice and dont handle it right after eating (wait 3-5 days).make the cage about 40 inches long and 1 1/2ft. high with a water bowl big enough for the whole snake to fit in. have a good time with your new snake!!!
feed him a mouse once every 2-3 days
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